Introduction

Hello and welcome to the Plants page at Classic Landscaping + Nursery! We’re your go-to family-owned spot for residential landscape design, installation, and maintenance on Seattle’s East Side and North Seattle. With over 40 years in the business, we’ve helped countless homeowners create gardens that not only look stunning but also stand up to our region’s distinctive weather patterns. Seattle’s maritime climate brings mild temperatures, abundant winter rain (about 37 inches annually), and drier summers, paired with often clay-heavy, acidic soils (pH 5.0-6.5). These conditions make plant selection both an art and a science—choosing species that tolerate moisture, shade, and occasional drought while avoiding common pitfalls like root rot or nutrient lockout.

At Classic Landscaping + Nursery, we focus on traditional, proven varieties that offer consistent performance and aesthetic appeal for formal or everyday landscapes. These cultivars are bred for disease resistance, bloom reliability, and adaptability, making them ideal for busy homeowners who want results without constant fuss. That said, we also stock alternatives like native plants, which are naturally adapted to local conditions and can reduce water and fertilizer needs once established. Natives provide a more wild, habitat-friendly look, but they might require initial care to compete with weeds or establish in disturbed soils.

Keep in mind, there are thousands of plant varieties available, and the suggestions below are just a place to start—each property has its own microclimate, soil type, light exposure, and design goals. That’s why working with our team of experienced landscape designers is invaluable; they’ll help you navigate the intricacies of selecting the right varieties for your specific yard, ensuring long-term success and beauty. Whether you’re starting a new bed, adding privacy, or refreshing your yard, our suggestions are drawn from established horticultural practices from sources like WSU Extension and local garden trials—because getting it right the first time is what sets us apart. Let’s get growing!

Contact our design team today for personalized recommendations.

Trees: Suggestions for Structure and Shade

Trees are the tall anchors that can define your yard’s structure, providing shade, privacy, and seasonal drama. In Seattle, where wind and wet soils can challenge root stability, we suggest species with strong systems that handle our conditions without excessive leaning or disease. Traditional trees like maples offer classic form and color, but with thousands of varieties out there, these are merely starting points. Our landscape designers can help tailor choices to your property’s unique needs, considering factors like space, soil, and light.

Suggested Trees

  • Bigleaf Maple (Acer macrophyllum): Consider this native deciduous tree, reaching 50-100 feet, with large, lobed leaves that turn brilliant yellow-orange in fall. It’s a good starting point for natural woodlands as it tolerates shade and moist soils but appreciates good drainage. Pros: Excellent for wildlife habitat and fall color; low-maintenance once established. Cons: Large size limits use in small yards; leaf drop requires fall cleanup. Care Tips: Plant in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil; water deeply (10-15 gallons weekly) during the first two years; prune in winter to shape. Monitor for verticillium wilt—avoid overwatering. Our designers can assess if this fits your site’s scale.
  • Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum cultivars): A traditional ornamental deciduous tree worth considering, 15-25 feet tall, with finely cut leaves in shades of red, green, or purple. Varieties like ‘Bloodgood’ are suggestions for upright form and fall color in cool, shaded spots. Pros: Compact for urban lots; year-round interest with bark in winter. Cons: Sensitive to wind and full sun, which can scorch leaves. Care Tips: Plant in partial shade with acidic, well-drained soil; mulch to retain moisture. Fertilize lightly in spring with a balanced product; protect from aphids with horticultural oil. Let our team evaluate sun exposure on your property to ensure success.
  • Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata): This native evergreen conifer, 50-70 feet in landscapes, is a solid suggestion for privacy screens with its flat, scale-like foliage and aromatic wood. Pros: Resistant to deer and many pests; good for windbreaks. Cons: Can shed branches in high winds; root system may compete with nearby plants. Care Tips: Full sun to partial shade in moist, fertile soil; ensure good air circulation to prevent root rot. Minimal pruning needed. Our designers can help position it to avoid competition with other elements.
  • Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii): As a native evergreen, this 40-80 feet tree is a starting suggestion for quick privacy with soft needles and pyramidal shape. Pros: Fast-growing; wildlife value. Cons: Needle drop acidifies soil; susceptible to needle cast in humid areas. Care Tips: Plant in full sun with well-drained soil; water young trees during dry summers. Monitor for fungal diseases—improve air circulation. Consult our team for site-specific compatibility.
  • Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida): A traditional deciduous tree to consider, 20-40 feet, with white or pink bracts in spring and red berries in fall. Pros: Multi-season interest; compact size. Cons: Prone to anthracnose in wet climates. Care Tips: Partial shade in rich, acidic soil; mulch to keep roots cool. Prune minimally after bloom. Our designers can check for disease risk on your property.

With thousands of tree varieties available, these suggestions are just the beginning—factors like mature size, root spread, and light needs vary by site. Our landscape designers will guide you through the nuances, ensuring selections that enhance your property without future issues. Pros of trees in general: Increase property value by up to 15%; provide shade to reduce cooling costs. Cons: Initial investment and establishment time (2-3 years). For sloped sites, our team recommends deep-rooted options to prevent erosion.

Shrubs: Suggestions for Privacy and Color

Shrubs can fill the mid-level of your garden, offering screening, borders, and seasonal flowers. Seattle’s shade and humidity favor broadleaf evergreens and flowering types, but with thousands of varieties, these are starting suggestions. Our designers will help select based on your property’s soil, exposure, and style to avoid common mismatches like poor blooming in too much shade.

  • Rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.): Consider this traditional evergreen shrub, 4-10 feet, with leathery leaves and spring flower clusters in various colors. ‘PJM’ is a starting suggestion for its compact, cold-hardy nature. Pros: Dense for privacy; shade-tolerant. Cons: Attracts weevils; requires acidic soil. Care Tips: Plant in partial shade with well-drained, acidic soil (pH 4.5-6.0); mulch with pine needles. Prune after flowering; fertilize with acid-loving formula. Our team can test your soil to confirm fit.
  • Camellia (Camellia japonica): A traditional evergreen to consider, 6-12 feet, with glossy leaves and winter-to-spring flowers. ‘Kramer’s Supreme’ is a suggestion for large red blooms. Pros: Off-season color; glossy foliage. Cons: Bud drop from cold or dry. Care Tips: Partial shade in rich, acidic soil; mulch to retain moisture. Prune after bloom. Designers can position it for wind protection on your site.
  • Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium): This native evergreen shrub, 3-6 feet, is a good starting point with holly-like leaves, yellow flowers, and blue berries. Pros: Deer-resistant; berries for birds. Cons: Spiny leaves. Care Tips: Full sun to shade in average soil; drought-tolerant once established. Prune lightly. Let our designers integrate it with your existing landscape.
  • Viburnum (Viburnum tinus ‘Spring Bouquet’): Consider this traditional evergreen, 4-6 feet, with white flowers and berries. Pros: Fragrant; compact. Cons: Leaf beetle risk. Care Tips: Partial shade in fertile soil. Prune after bloom. Our team can monitor for pests specific to your yard.
  • Abelia (Abelia x grandiflora): A traditional semi-evergreen suggestion, 3-6 feet, with arching branches and pink-white flowers. ‘Kaleidoscope’ offers variegated leaves. Pros: Long blooming; pollinator-friendly. Cons: Cold wind protection needed. Care Tips: Full sun to part shade; well-drained soil. Prune in late winter.

With endless shrub varieties, these are entry points—our landscape designers will navigate the details, matching to your property’s microclimate for optimal growth. Pros: Quick privacy. Cons: Pruning required. For pests like aphids: Rinse or use soap.

Perennials: Suggestions for Recurring Color

Perennials return annually, adding color without replanting. With thousands available, these are starting suggestions for Seattle’s shade—our designers will fine-tune for your property’s light and soil to maximize blooms.

  • Hosta (Hosta spp.): Consider this traditional shade perennial, 1-3 feet, with bold leaves. ‘Sum and Substance’ is a suggestion for slug-resistance. Pros: Dense foliage; low growth. Cons: Slug magnet. Care Tips: Moist, shaded soil; use iron phosphate bait. Designers can recommend companion plants to deter pests.
  • Astilbe (Astilbe arendsii): A starting suggestion for wet shade, 1-4 feet, with plumes in pink or white. Pros: Dense blooms; deer-resistant. Cons: Needs moisture. Care Tips: Partial shade in rich soil; cut back in fall. Our team can assess wetness on your site.
  • Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum): Native evergreen perennial, 2-4 feet, suggested for texture. Pros: Drought-tolerant in shade. Cons: Brown in sun. Care Tips: Average soil; remove old fronds. Designers can use it for understory.
  • Daylily (Hemerocallis hybrids): Traditional perennial suggestion, 1-4 feet, with reblooming flowers. ‘Stella d’Oro’ is a start. Pros: Adaptable. Cons: Spreads. Care Tips: Full sun; divide periodically.
  • Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea): Suggested for butterflies, 2-4 feet, with purple daisies. Pros: Drought-tolerant. Cons: Crown rot risk. Care Tips: Full sun; deadhead.

Perennials vary widely—these are basics; our designers handle intricacies for your property.

Ground Covers: Suggestions for Weed Suppression

Ground covers fill gaps—thousands exist; these are starters. Designers customize for your slope or shade.

  • Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis): Suggested for shade, 6-12 inches. Pros: Dense. Cons: Slow establishment. Care Tips: Acidic soil; trim edges.
  • Vinca (Vinca minor): Starting suggestion for quick cover, 6 inches. Pros: Blue flowers. Cons: Invasive potential. Care Tips: Partial shade; prune.
  • Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi): Native suggestion, 6-12 inches. Pros: Berries. Cons: Slow. Care Tips: Sandy soil.
  • Wild Ginger (Asarum caudatum): Native for shade, 6-12 inches. Pros: Aromatic. Cons: Slow. Care Tips: Moist soil.

Evergreens: Suggestions for Winter Interest

Evergreens maintain form—starters from thousands; designers select for your space.

  • Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens): Suggested for hedges, 3-6 feet. Pros: Prunable. Cons: Blight risk. Care Tips: Partial shade.
  • Yew (Taxus baccata): Starting for privacy, 4-60 feet. Pros: Shade-tolerant. Cons: Toxic. Care Tips: Prune.
  • Salal (Gaultheria shallon): Native suggestion, 2-6 feet. Pros: Berries. Cons: Spreads. Care Tips: Acidic soil.

Every garden is unique. Reach out to our designers for answers specific to your property.

Conclusion

These plant suggestions are just the beginning—with thousands of varieties, our landscape designers will help you choose the perfect ones for your property’s intricacies. Contact us for a consultation—let’s craft your ideal garden!

Common Issues and Solutions in Seattle Gardens

Seattle's climate—cool, wet, and shaded—can lead to several common plant problems, but with proactive care, they're manageable. Remember, these are general suggestions based on typical conditions; our landscape designers can inspect your property to diagnose and tailor solutions, as issues can vary by microclimate, soil, or plant variety. With thousands of plants, prevention is key—healthy selections from the start reduce risks.

  • Pests

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    Pests like slugs, aphids, and weevils are prevalent due to our humidity and mild winters, which allow populations to overwinter.

    • Slugs and Snails: These mollusks chew holes in leaves, especially on hostas and young seedlings, thriving in moist mulch or debris. Solution: Start with cultural controls like removing hiding spots (e.g., boards or rocks) and hand-picking at night. For baiting, use iron phosphate products (safe for pets); traditional chemical baits are available but use sparingly. Encourage natural predators like ground beetles by avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides. Pros of early action: Prevents defoliation. Cons: Ongoing vigilance needed in wet years. Our designers can suggest slug-resistant varieties or companion plants like lavender to deter them.
    • Aphids: Small, sap-sucking insects clustering on new growth, causing curled leaves and honeydew (leading to sooty mold). Common on roses and viburnums. Solution: Rinse with strong water jets; for persistent infestations, use insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils. Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs as an alternative approach. Pros: Quick to control if caught early. Cons: Can spread viruses. Designers can recommend resistant cultivars for your site.
    • Weevils (e.g., Root Weevils): Larvae feed on roots, causing wilting; adults notch leaves. Affects rhododendrons and yews. Solution: Apply beneficial nematodes to soil in spring/fall for larvae; traditional insecticides for adults. Improve soil drainage to reduce appeal. Pros: Biological controls are long-lasting. Cons: Repeat applications may be needed.

  • Diseases

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    Fungal and bacterial issues spike in our humid conditions, but good airflow and resistant varieties mitigate them.

    • Powdery Mildew: White powdery coating on leaves, common on astilbe and viburnum in shaded, crowded spots. Solution: Improve circulation by spacing plants (2-3 feet apart) and pruning for openness; apply fungicides like sulfur or neem oil. Choose resistant varieties as a starting point. Pros: Preventive spacing is simple. Cons: Recurs in humid summers. Our team can redesign layouts for better air flow on your property.
    • Root Rot (Phytophthora spp.): Yellowing, wilting from overwet soils, affecting camellias and conifers. Solution: Ensure well-drained planting sites—raise beds if clay dominates; avoid overwatering. Use fungicides as a last resort; select tolerant species. Pros: Proper site prep prevents it. Cons: Can kill plants quickly. Designers can test soil drainage before planting.
    • Anthracnose: Leaf spots and dieback on dogwoods and maples in wet springs. Solution: Rake fallen leaves to reduce spores; apply copper fungicides in early spring. Prune infected branches. Pros: Fall cleanup is effective. Cons: Spreads in rain.

  • Soil Issues

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    Seattle’s clay and acidity can lock nutrients or cause poor drainage.

    • Clay Soil: Compacts, leading to waterlogging and root suffocation. Solution: Amend with compost or gypsum before planting to improve structure; use raised beds for perennials. Mulch to prevent crusting. Pros: Amendments last years. Cons: Labor-intensive initially.
    • Acidity: Low pH ties up iron and other nutrients, causing chlorosis (yellow leaves) in non-acid lovers. Solution: Test soil (kits at our nursery); add lime for pH adjustment if below 5.5 for general plants, but keep acidic for rhodies. Pros: Simple fix with testing. Cons: Over-liming can harm acid-lovers.
    • Nutrient Deficiencies: Yellowing from lack of iron or nitrogen in wet soils. Solution: Fertilize with balanced products in spring; use chelated iron for quick fixes. Pros: Targeted feeding revives plants. Cons: Over-fertilizing runs off.

  • Weeds and Invasive Growth

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    Weeds compete for resources; invasives like English ivy can overtake.

    • Weeds: Annuals like dandelions or perennials like bindweed. Solution: Mulch 2-3 inches to suppress; hand-pull or use pre-emergents in spring. Pros: Mulch also retains moisture. Cons: Persistent in disturbed areas.
    • Invasives: Avoid planting; remove existing ones. Solution: Cut and dig roots; replace with suggested ground covers. Pros: Prevents spread. Cons: Time-consuming.

    For all issues, early monitoring is key—walk your garden weekly. If problems persist, our designers can visit your property for a customized diagnosis and plan, factoring in your specific conditions.

Frequently Asked Questions

We've compiled some common questions from Seattle homeowners, but remember, answers can vary by property. These are starting points—our landscape designers are here to provide tailored advice based on your site's unique factors.

  • What's a good starting plant for shade on my property?

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    Suggestions like Hostas or Sword Ferns are great for low light, offering texture and resilience. However, with thousands of shade options, our designers will assess your specific shade level (dappled vs. deep) and soil to recommend the best fit, avoiding issues like slug damage in overly moist spots.

  • How can I deal with clay soil in my yard?

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    Amending with organic matter like compost is a solid starting approach to improve drainage and structure, helping plants root better. But clay varies by location—our team can test your property’s soil and suggest precise amendments or raised beds to prevent waterlogging, ensuring long-term plant health.

  • Should I choose native or traditional plants for my garden?

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    It’s a great question—traditional plants offer predictable aesthetics and bloom times, while natives are adapted to local conditions as an alternative. With endless varieties, mixing both often works best; our designers will help navigate this for your property, considering goals like low maintenance or wildlife support.

  • When is the best time to plant in Seattle?

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    Spring (March-May) or fall (September-November) are suggested periods for root establishment before extremes. However, it depends on your site’s exposure and plant type—our team can time it perfectly for your property to minimize transplant shock.

  • How do I prevent pests like slugs from damaging my plants?

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    Starting with barriers or iron phosphate baits is effective, especially in our wet climate. For a comprehensive plan, our designers can recommend resistant varieties or companion planting tailored to your yard’s conditions, reducing reliance on treatments.

  • What if my plants are yellowing—what could it be?

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    Nutrient deficiencies from acidic soil or overwatering are common starting culprits, often fixed with soil tests and adjustments. But causes vary—our landscape designers can inspect your property to pinpoint issues like iron lockout and suggest remedies.

  • Are there plants that are deer-resistant for Seattle?

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    Suggestions like Oregon Grape or Yews are good starts, with spiny or aromatic foliage deterring browsers. With deer pressures differing by neighborhood, our team can select and position plants for your property to minimize damage.

  • How much water do these plants need?

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    As a general suggestion, deep, infrequent watering (1 inch per week in dry periods) establishes roots, but it varies by soil and exposure. Our designers can evaluate your property’s irrigation needs and recommend systems or drought-tolerant options.

  • Can I mix natives and traditionals in one bed?

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    Absolutely—it’s a popular starting approach for balance. Our designers specialize in blending them for your property, ensuring harmony in growth habits and care requirements.

  • What's the cost range for these plants?

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    Starting prices vary—small perennials from $10, shrubs $20-50, trees $100+—but factor in size and variety. For accurate budgeting, our team can provide quotes based on your property’s design plan. These prices exclude the installation effort.

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